Edited BY
G P Kennedy
Coffee by Ellie
If you have been following these stories for a while, dear reader, you already know that I have mentioned coffee in several of my coronavirus reports. That is because coffee is not just an important drink or ritual in Italy but an essential item, too. A marker of life, social standing and measure of sophistication even.
Since coffee shops were closed during the lockdown, coffee was necessary sustenance that often went unfulfilled. Since we didn't make coffee at home (long story), we resorted to tea. And you might remember that once the prohibition was lifted, coffee shop bonanza opened and we could flock to the so called "bars" (that is, coffee shops), we were utterly disappointed to discover that coffee was now served in reusable cups. Blame it on the prohibition to stay inside. Luckily, it was only temporary.
So, the irony is, once the clouds of the lockdown were lifted, we actually broke out the moka pot and started making coffee at home. You see, only in the English-speaking world (or perhaps where Starbucks reigns) is moka related to anything chocolate.
In Italy, that is simply the traditional Neapolitan pot (two chambers, vertical) that is really the only way to make coffee at home. Barring the hideous Nespresso machines. The result is coffee with no upper layer that is fine for consumption.
Now, for anything else outside the house, of course, there is the real espresso, made by real machines that are impractical to own privately. You see, unless you make large quantities of coffee, it's just counterproductive to churn espresso because it is good only if you maintain a constant flow of it.
So every self-respecting coffee lover enjoys it at the bar. And this means that bars have a high bar to reach, and use coffee as a branding opportunity. The coffee cup design is a huge competition point among coffee shops. There is a lot of creativity involved as well as artist excesses that make it actually more difficult to drink.
If you are interested to know, coffee is usually 1 euro. Of course, there are also fancy options. Like this Neapolitan shop in Milan that specializes in coffee and chocolate delicacies. But they are limited to lazy afternoons and not to busy mornings.
That's how it is possible for coffee shop baristas to process a fast paced flow of drinkers on their way to work without the complex logistics of Starbucks. Just espresso or cappuccino in mornings - two options - and you are out the door.
For summer afternoon, there is also caffe shakerato, which is just simple espresso mixed with ground ice. There is a philosophy in Italy that if a drink or food is not simple, this is to mask some imperfections in the ingredients. Something is not fresh; something is messed up.
So, simple is good.
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